There are no direct flights from Nome to Barrow, so we flew back to Anchorage on the 11th and had time to bird some local parks. Our flight on Sunday the 12th departed at 2:00 p.m.. We got up at 5:00 so we could drive north in search of a Black-backed Woodpecker. This species is unique in its preference for areas that have recently been burned. We drove about 85 miles north to the area burned in the 2015 Sockeye Fire. Nick Athanas, our guide from Tropical Birding, knew exactly where to look.
Black-backed Woodpecker, one of the few North American woodpeckers with yellow on its head. Most have some red.
Black-backed Woodpecker habitat
Young hairy Woodpecker in nest
Canada Jay
Slate-colored Junco
During our two-hour flight to Barrow we were learned that visibility might be badat our destination. We flew all the way there, made our descent, and then pulled up and flew to Fairbanks. After refueling, we returned to Anchorage and managed to find some of the few remaining a hotel rooms. Everyone was rebooked for an 8:00 a.m. flight the next day, resulting in another early wake up call.
Once again we were making our descent when we aborted the landing for no apparent reason. We could clearly see the runway and every building on the ground. We flew to Kotzebue to refuel and then flew back to Barrow for another aborted landing. Our next stop was Fairbanks where we were allowed to deplane while refueling. We all hoped this meant we were waiting for the invisible fog to clear, but we returned directly to Anchorage after a full day of flying around the state.
We started the next day with another 8:00 a.m. flight to Barrow, and this time we actually landed there. Our scheduled three-day stay was reduced to one day, but that was enough to see all the birds that were reported in the area during that time.
I refer to Barrow by that name, because the locals and the airports all use it. However, the 5,000 residents voted to change the name to Utqiagvik in 2015. The name means a place for gathering wild roots. This is similar to its original name, Utpiagvik which means the place where we hunt snowy owls. We saw two snowy owls there, so perhaps they are no longer on the local menu.
The sign below marks the location of 2,000 year-old remains of semi-underground sod houses that were heated with whale oil and supported with whale bones.
Sign noting history of Utpiagvik/Barrow/Utqiagvik
Most of the homes in Barrow are built on posts
Typical Barrow home
Typical Barrow homes
When the snow starts to melt, people improvise.
Pallet sidewalk
The remains of whales can still be seen on beaches.
There are no good options for disposal of old cars. A few of the streets serve as junk yards.
Abandoned cars
I have owned many Ford vehicles and really enjoyed each one. But I suppose everyone makes an occasional lemon.
With sunset not due until early August, we had plenty of daylight for birding. Eiders are the number one attraction and none are more spectacular than the King Eider
King Eider - PHOTO BY BEN KNOOT
Stellar's Eider
Spectacled Eider, male
Spectacled eider - female
In most bird species, the female is more cryptically colored to camouflage her while she sits on the nest. Since it is the male phalaropes who incubate the eggs, the females have the more colorful plumage.
Red Phalarope, female
Red-necked Phalarope, female
Barrow is a great place to see shorebirds in their breeding plumage.
White-rumped Sandpiper
Dunlin
Long-billed Dowitcher
Pectoral Sandpiper
Waterfowl are also abundant.
Greater White-fronted Geese seemed to be everywhere. The "front" in their name refers to the feathers near the bill.
Green-winged Teal
Tundra Swans on the tundra!
Long-tailed Duck
Long-tailed Duck calling
The Barrow Forest consists of four fake palm trees, the only trees in the area.
Barrow Forest
Snow Bunting at the Barrow Forest feeders
Pomarine Jaeger
Arctic Loon - PHOTO BY BEN KNOOT
We ended the day with only two target birds on the next day's agenda. This meant we got to sleep in until 7:45! It took a while, but we Nick finally found us a distant pair of Sabine's Gulls.
Sabine's Gulls
We were still in the same spot when we spotted our final target, three Yellow-billed Loons flying overhead, no photos.
I am savoring my experiences this year: seeing new places, meeting new people, and of course seeing birds. While it is not about the number of species seen, it is fun to check how I am doing. I ended my Alaska trip in fifth place in the USA for the year. I have already slipped back to seventh and do not expect to crack the top 5 again. Good thing I took a screen shot!
Two days after I returned home I woke up sneezing in the middle of the night. I still went out for a morning outing and found my first Virginia Rail of the year. But after a two-hour nap I took a Covid Test and failed. The meds are working and I am glad I was double vaccinated and double boosted. I expect to be ready to enjoy the world when the isolation period ends. In the meantime, I am taking it easy.
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